Here's a review of Circa submitted by a reader I know well.
After months of anticipation, I had the pleasure of dining at Circa last night for the first time since their soft opening on January 31. I'm happy to report that this is the restaurant Cazenovia has been waiting for.
With an eclectic, reasonably-priced menu including fresh twists on old favorites, like a hamburger made with local, grass-fed beef on crusty bread or roasted free-range chicken with pumpkin risotto, sauteed greens, and a cider reduction, as well as creative (yet approachable) dishes like trout fritters with yukon gold potatoes and a spicy rouille or grilled halibut with butternut gnocchi, tomato-fennel ragout, and olive tapenade, owner and chef Alicyn Hart has found the sweet spot every diner hopes for.
The newly remodeled space that used to house the Hummingbird pantry lends an appropriate bistro-like atmosphere, though conversation was somewhat difficult given the acoustics of the room. (Perhaps additional draping in the traditional blue and gold hues of Cazenovia that grace the restaurant would lend a warmer feel and muffle a bit of the ambient noise.) Apart from that minor detail, the remainder of our dining experience was flawless.
We began with an appetizer of lentil and carrot samosas in phyllo dough with curreid lemon yogurt, a pleasant departure from the standard (and tired) appetizer offerings that always seem to be either deep-fried or boiled, chopped, and chilled. The phyllo and lemon yogurt lightened the traditionally heavy, deep-fried dish, as did the choice of perfectly-tender lentils in place of potatoes.
Our entrees, which were accompanied by individual recommendations for wine pairings, included the grilled halibut and "Pasta Pappardelle," made with fresh, handmade pasta (in last night's case, spinach pasta) with roasted butternut squash, oyster mushrooms, and rosemary ricotta. It was a joy to find a fish offering that was not battered and deep-fried, but beyond those meager expectations, the fish was extremely fresh, moist, and grilled perfectly. Paired with gnocchi that was uncharacteristically light, due in part to the delightfully fresh tomato-fennel ragout in which it was tossed, and accented with an olive tapenade, the dish came together in a way that was both light and satisfying. Like all our other samplings, the Pasta Pappardelle made a statement before we ever tasted it. The dish's broad, handmade pasta, rosemary ricotta base, and brightly-colored butternut squash made a lovely, aromatic presentation. Layers of texture and flavor unfolded, none overpowering the last, revealing meaty yet delicate oyster mushrooms and freshly-toasted squash seeds to accent the dish and add a bit of crunch. I would have preferred a slightly more carmelized version of the butternut squash, but the overall dish was impeccable, and it was refreshing to see an inventive vegetarian entree on a small but varied, well-executed menu.
Desserts, which are made by a local woman who brought samples of her delectible poundcakes to each table for sampling, were somewhat limited, but tasty and quite fitting for the size and scope of the menu. While the beautifully-fruited cheesecake and the sweet potato pie were tempting, I was won over by the delicious poundcakes in chocolate, lemon, and sweet potato varieties. With its gingery glaze and moist, rich texture, the sweet potato poundcake emerged the clear favorite, which we enjoyed with a cup of coffee and whole-leaf infused tea.
With our culinary standards satisfied, we waited for the other shoe to drop. Though the service had been excellent all night--the wait staff ranged from young and eager to experienced and extremely professional--we knew that waiting for a bill to arrive and be processed was often the point at which many otherwise good dining experiences fell short. To our delight, not only was our table bussed efficiently but without rushing, glasses refilled, and fallen napkins promptly replaced, but our check was there and back to us quickly--without the inevitable "do you need change?" remark, which always strikes me as presumptuous and off-putting, as if returning to the table with change is an inconvenience. Lastly, the chef and owner, who has clearly made a priority of training her staff and making sure that there were enough servers to tables, took the time from her busy kitchen to introduce herself and make sure we were absolutely satisfied.
Ms. Hart has obviously paid close attention to every detail, and the quality of our overall dining experience reflects that--here's to a long and successful run.